Tag: cheese

From soil to cheese

Top 2 from a Dutch cheese journey

He drops down unto his knees and studies the fresh cow manure on the field. It has the right smell, fIies have already found it, and that’s a good sign. It is one of indicators of how the cow is doing. Jan Dirk van de Voort is a farmer and cheesemaker of Remeker cheese and he sees the world in quite a different light than most of his colleagues.

Fresh manure with flies = healthy cow

Manure after 2½ weeks = dung beetles and birds have almost done their job

In accordance with nature

Jan Dirk comes from a farmer’s family and their story is linked to the farm De Groote Vort for many generations. Despite family tradition, he has gone his own ways. Well, his father did too, he was the first in the Netherlands to start with jersey cows. They were actually the first in Europe to make gouda with jersey milk.

The biggest change

Jan Dirk turned the farm organic 30 years ago but the gamechanger came 15 years ago when they said goodbye to antibiotics, vitamins, insecticides, pesticides etc. From that moment he relied on nature and sustainability. It has become a combination of philosophy and earning model at the same time.

The horns

An example of his way has do with horns. It is common that you dehorn the cows in order to prevent them to harm each other and to minimize the need for space. Jan Dirk explains that the horns is a mineral depot which are used for the calves. If you take away the horns, the minerals for the calves come out of the hoofs and thereby creating hoof issues which need treatment.

In order to avoid aggressions among the cows, the stable has no corners. where the cows normally could take out their aggressions.

The 85 cows eat fresh grass when it’s possible and that’s most of the year. When they can’t have fresh grass, they are fed with things such as hay, grass sileage and pressed herbs.

Drink coffee and let the worms work

The farm generates six incomes but has many more employees if you count the worms. They do an important job. Jan Dirk tells us about a research project they run with the university right now. The worms count the Dutch local worms but also imported long Canadian worms. It takes around 30 years to take the fields back to a stage where no ploughing and working the soil is needed (and he can drink coffee in stead). Where the soil is in balance when it comes to water, calcium and other minerals.

The compactness of these two soil lumps will dissappear within a few more years when the worms have done more work.

Connection between soil and cheese

When it comes to the Remeker cheese, the method is also in line with old traditions and nature. Milk is only heated to the natural temperature of the cow which means all important micro organisms are kept alive.

In the maturing cellar, beautiful cheeses with natural rind marked Remeker lie on wooden planks and are turned now and then.

But new ideas can come along. All cheeses are for instance covered with homemade ghee (clarified butter). This gives extra taste from the outside inwards.

Remeker is an old name of one of the fields. It goes back to the 17th century and comes from two old Dutch names: Reem (surrounded by) and eker (oak).

The cheeses are really good. Going from young (3 months) with buttery, creamy flavor which melts on the tongue to 1½ years with grainy texture and crunchy crystals.

22. May 2019
Beemster

Top 4 from a Dutch cheese journey

Going to the Netherlands means going to the land of gouda. But you don’t have to stay long to understand that there are differences between gouda and gouda.

If you stay in the inner center of Amsterdam you meet several well merchandised cheese shops with gouda in all colors (added spices) and without. But if you go outside Amsterdam and visit the smaller dairies you’ll see that even though they produce gouda, they refer to their cheese by the brand and not as gouda.

Protected name or not?

Gouda is one of the cheese types (like cheddar) which isn’t protected by its origin (PDO). This means gouda is produced all over the world today. But yet there are two protections: Nord-Hollandse Gouda (gouda from North Holland) has the PDO stamp, and Gouda Holland carries the PGI stamp.

Gouda is a town in South Holland. This is the place to stroll along the channels, enjoy a stroopwafel and visit the cheese market on Thursdays during spring/summer.

Beemster, the area

In the beginning of the 17th century, Amsterdam needed more farm land. Beemster lake was the biggest lake in North Holland with a connection to the sea. In the beginning of the 17th century, a wild project started: 43 windmills pumped out the water over the next few years. Dry land was found 4 meters / 13+ feet below sea level. Windmills are still used today to pump out water and keep the land dry. Today, it is protected as Unesco Heritage, as the first polder in the Netherlands.

The plan was to use the reclaimed land for agriculture. But the soil was too wet. Yet it was perfect for grass and cows. The soil is old sea bed, fertile mineral marine clay, rich and salty.

The grass that grows here has a high level of Omega 3 which adds to the milk quality. However, if the grass gets too long, the Omega 3 dissappears. Therefore, it needs to be cut at the right length when turned into hay 🙂

The plan for the reclaimed land from the old lake. And so it is today: Straight roads, dykes and water channels.

With so much water all over, maybe it’s no wonder the Dutch king has an education in Water Management

Locks are used to manage the different levels of water

Beemster, the cheese

4% of all Dutch cheese comes from Cono Kaasmakers, a cooperative in Westbeemster (the biggest player is Friesland-Campina with 75%).

Cono started in 1901 and covers today 460 farmers who in average have 70 free range cows per farm. Their biggest brand is Beemster.

Even though it is an industrial production, they still use some traditional techniques. For example, the cheesemaker stirs the curd by hand (he uses a rake) which ensures an even drainage and thereby a smoother texture.

Cono claims to be the greenest dairy in the world and is aiming at being CO2 neutral in 2020. In 2008, they launched their Caring Dairy-project (‘happy cows, happy farmers, happy planet’) which focuses on sustainable dairy farming. Cows are out 180 days a year, live longer, have better health and give more milk.

Noord-Hollandse Gouda PDO

The old marine clay in the soil is the secret behind the unique taste of the cheeses coming from this area. The blue marine clay gives more taste to the juicy grass and thus to the milk. At the dairy they add less salt which leaves room for a more natural and complex taste.

Gouda from North Holland carries the PDO stamp. One of the describing factors for this particular gouda is a lower salt content than in other goudas. Two producers make this particular gouda (Cono and Friesland-Campina).

Beemster cheese come with different maturations from 1 month to 26 months. From buttery and creamy to crymbly, drier and more caramel

Happy in the land of gouda… 🙂

10. May 2019
Dried fruit marinated in port
If your drawers contain dried fruits such as dates, apricots, figs, cranberries as well as almonds, you are ready to convert them into a yummy treat. Port marinated dried fruit is a delicious companion for your cheese. (Even though someone only feasted on the cheese – see who at end of this post…)

Cheese, port and dried fruit – what’s not to like?!
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dried fruits marinated in port
- 1.3 cup / 3 dl port
- 0.3 cup / 0,75 dl brown sugar
- 8.8 oz / 250 g mixed dried fruits (dates, apricots, figs, cranberries), cut into pieces
- 3.5 oz / 100 g almonds
- 1 cinnamon stick
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method
- Heat port and brown sugar in a small pot. Stir until the sugar is dissolved and it simmers.
- Add dried fruit, almonds and cinnamon stick. Let it simmer for a short while.
- Pour into scalded glasses. Seal and leave in the fridge for at least 24 hours.
Someone in particular licked her lips. My dog Lea. She was right on the spot when I went into the kitchen for a short while – suddenly the brie and the danablu (Danish blue mould) had gone…
27. January 2019
The significance of wooden shelves

The more you dig into the amazing cheese universe, the more nerdy details and complexities you meet.

Take for instance the shelves on which the cheeses mature. Have you ever thought about which material the shelf is made of? And why this is worth giving a thought?

Shelves made of wood

Originally, cheeses matured on wooden shelves as wood was all around. In some cases today, the wooden shelf has actually become part of the AOP-designation. Take for instance mont d’or AOP: This seasonal cheese must mature on spruce boards (as well as having a spruce belt around and is finally placed in a spruce box). The tannins contribute to the taste and character of the cheese (which actually is no different from wine maturing in oak barrels).

The wooden boards are washed between each production but you cannot sterilize wood as it is a porous material. Remains of cheese culture from former cheeses will always be present and passed on to the next cheese residing on the shelf. And thus the wooden shelf plays a roll in the maturing process.

These wooden boards are drying outside a farm dairy in the French Alps.

Once I met the tomme cheeses below in an Alpine dairy in France. When the cheese is ‘newly born’ (as to the left) they are placed in the cellar together with the elderly and grey cheeses (to the right). This is how the mould is spreading to the newcomers which aren’t sprayed or washed to get the mould. It is already in the room!

Symbiosis of moisture and wood

I need to mention another detail. Wood absorbs the excess moisture in the room and in the cheese – but it can also pass on moisture to the cheese in case it gets too dry. This moisture exchange does play a role in defining the texture and taste of the cheese. When a cheese matures, moisture dissappears – in a controlled way. When the cheese lies on wood, the wood absorbs the excess moisture and helps the cheese to form a rind. If a moist cheese is soaking in liquid it will instead create the perfect conditions for unwanted microorganisms. On the other hand, if the room is too dry, the cheese will absorb the moist from the wood and thereby prevent it from drying out. As simple as that!

Affinage of Danish cheeses

Some years ago, it was decided due to hygiene factors to ban the use of wooden shelves in the maturing of parmigiano reggiano. But soon the cheese masters discovered that the cheeses didn’t develop the same taste and soul as before. The result? Wooden boards are back.

Not all types of cheese mature on wood. Some mould cheeses or washed cheeses lie on shelves of plastic, stainless steel or on a layer of paper or cloth. It all depends on what the cheese needs in order to bloom as much as possible.

22. January 2019
Veggie roses with cheese
These beautiful roses are elegant on a plate. Eighter as an element on a mixed plate for starter or as a side to a main course.

It takes a little bit of patience to make them – but I think it is worth the effort. I have used emmental which melts well and gives a nice taste of cheese. You can of course choose other cheeses depending on the taste and intensity you want.

Veggie roses with cheese
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ingredients (6 roses)
- 2 big potatoes
- 1 big carrot
- 1 small zucchini
- 4 tbsp thyme and rosmary, finely chopped
- 3 tbsp olive oil
- salt and pepper
- 60 g / 2.1 oz emmental or other matured cheese, finely grated
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method
- Wash the vegetables and peel the carrot. Use a mandolin (or a carrot peeler) to make long and thin ribbons.
- Mix herbs with oil, salt and pepper in a small bowl.
- Place two ribbons of zucchini on a board, brush with oil and sprinkle with cheese. Add a layer with carrot, brush and sprinkle. Top with a layer of potatoes, repeat with oil and cheese.
- Let the two piles overlap. Now you have one long ribbon with three layers of vegetables. Carefully you role the ribbons until you have a rose. Place it in a greased muffin form. Make five more roses.
- Bake the roses in the oven (180°C / 350°F) for 40 minutes until the cheese is golden and the vegetables are tender.
11. January 2019